August 7

Distance: 18.9 miles | Ascent: 4090′ | Descent: 2150′

Mile marker: 678.0

Lunch: J – garlic mushroom couscous (C+), A – chili orzo (B+)

Dinner: J – tomato orzo (B-), A – spicy mac (A-)

We walked across a lot of lava rock today! It was not so smooth sailing, but the views and novelty made for a fascinating day.

We got rain at our campsite last night, but were lucky with just clouds as we packed up camp. We didn’t sleep the best because of the rain and wind, thus opting to sleep in until 6am. Some other hikers joined our site after we got into our tent last night. We chatted with one as we packed up. He said he did 40 miles yesterday!

We topped off our water at the camp and headed off towards Three Sisters. The trail out was easy-going, but the humidity was a killer. Our training in Colorado did not, could not, prepare us for humid hiking. We were lucky that the clouds began to part a little after 10am and we stopped for lunch at a campsite before our next hill. We took the opportunity to dry out our tent and some other gear that got wet from last night’s rain.

We had just seen some evidence of lava rocks as we sat for lunch. Little did we know that they would be a staple of the rest of our day.

We crossed the first patch of lava rocks without much pain or fuss. Some northbound hikers were grateful to hear that the lava rocks were ending for them soon. We heard about this section for a few days now and couldn’t really get a good sense for where the lava rocks were or how far they went. We were about to find out.

The abruptness of the main lava rocks field took us by surprise. The forest and pine duff just ended and rock wall began.

Despite our concerns and the fear mongering from the northbound hikers, it really wasn’t that bad. Yes, some iffy footing here and there. Yes, lava rocks are sharp. Yes, it was pretty exposed. But, we took it slow and steady, stopping every few minutes to admire how spectacular and dramatic the scenery had become.

The rocks ended just before Mackenzie Pass. The trail gave us a great look at how that past lava flow divided the forest.

At the trailhead, there were two magics. The first was a bubbly drink from an unmarked, unguarded cooler. We both got lacroixs. Or we stole them. Tough to know for sure. The second magic was a 4th generation Oregonian handing out all sorts of snacks and drinks. We got peaches, craving fresh fruits. We didn’t stick around long since we had some more distance to cover. One of the best things about getting trail magic is then telling other hikers about it.

We crossed the road and there was a bit more lava rock, but nothing like the 2.5 mile field we had just crossed. As we walked and the sky continued to clear, we got spectacular views of the Three Sisters peaks.

Shortly after a quick break, Alex unintentionally snuck up on a mountain lion while coming over the crest of a hill. It was plodding along the trail 20 yards ahead. They both froze, the lion probably hearing (or smelling) Alex, and Alex planning her next move, should things go south. Coming across a mountain lion on a busy trail in the middle of the day is unusual – they’re reclusive creatures. The mountain lion looked back at Alex for a moment before, fortunately, deciding to carry on. It trotted off the trail gracefully, silently, and with no sense of urgency. Jason crested the hill a few moments later, too late to catch a glimpse.

We climbed up steadily and were greeted with a more views of past lava flows, cones, and cinders, and prior peaks off in the distance: Mount Jefferson and Mount Hood.

At last, we made it to a alpine meadow where kestrals were flying about.  A little further was a spring to refill water. The spring water was literally bubbling from the rocks.

We didn’t make it as far as we had planned, but the day was filled with amazing views and lots of fascinating scenery. We decided to set up camp near the spring rather than rush through the next section of trail to make it to the next campsite. We can always make up the distance when we get to a less dramatic section of trail.

We were glad that our shoes survived the lava rocks. We heard plenty of stories about soles getting chewed up, shoelaces getting shredded, and toe boxes getting smashed. A lot of those stories might’ve been hyperbole. Like I said, it was tough but not tougher than anything else we’ve done. Maybe it’s because we survived Washington that we have a sense for really tough trail conditions.

The lava rocks were fascinating! Evidence of when the rock was liquid and moving over and through anything in its path.