Day 132: Pilgrimage to Paradise Valley Cafe


November 7

Distance: 26.3 miles | Ascent: 3340′ | Descent: 6710′

Mile marker: 2540

Lunch: J – oatmeal and tuna salad (B+, A-), A – sausage stuffing (B+)

Dinner: J&A – burger (A+s galore)


We’re starting to give in to temptation. Town luxuries and real food are on our minds a lot. The real world is starting to bleed into our hike via emails and end-of-hike logistics. After four months of this, whatever this is, we are starting to shun certain foods we packed ourselves. As much variety as we tried to add to our resupplies, there are just some foods that we have no appetite for. Since we seem to go into a town every other day in SoCal, we have more access to real foods. Today, our pilgrimage took us to yet our third notable burger of the last weekish (eight day, I think).

It was no easy journey. After our monster day yesterday, we were not stoked to hike 25+ miles. The campsite we stayed was also the last reliable on-trail water until the end of the day, meaning we’d have to carry a full desert day’s worth of water right off the bat.  There were some water sources (of questionable quality and reliability) off trail, but we didn’t have time for that!

The trail was rockier than we expected. The east side of this range was burnt to a crisp, it seems. No trees means no shade. Recent burn also means the trail is a tad unstable, more susceptible to washing out and revealing all the rocks below the dirt. And, the ground was hard without any pine duff to cushion our steps. On the bright side, we have good views without trees blocking the way. However, we would’ve preferred the trees.

We could see the Salton Sea on the horizon reflecting the morning sun. We saw Palm Springs below in the valley (incidentally, golf courses look mind-boggling out of place in the desert).

We lunched under the shade of a bush. There was horse poop all around. Why are horses allowed to poop wherever, yet I have to dig a hole? Despite the rougher trail conditions, we were making decent time. The last good hill of the day was right after lunch. Hyped up on caffeine and the desire to eat a burger, Alex flew up the hill while Jason struggled to keep up.

At last, we made it out of the burnzone and over the hill. The shrubbey, scruby desert lay before us. The hiking got easier. We were picked up speed. We made it to highway 74 just at sunset. The extra mile to Paradise Valley Cafe didn’t count to our total, but we knew a 1/2 pound burger was in our future.

Oh, along the way we crossed 2500 miles. There were two pre-made markers.

We got to the cafe. We caught up with another hiker who had arrived just hours before us. We ordered our burgers. We felt like animals trying to eat them.

The highlight of our hike shouldn’t be not hiking, but can you blame us? We’ve been nomadic for four months!

We slept on the porch of the restaurant. The staff offered, nay, insisted we do. It feels illegal, and it probably is to a lot of people under different circumstances. Following the staff’s suggestions, we made a little fort out of the patio furniture. Hiking the PCT is weird.


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